What Not & I

...The Neglected Millions...

2010-04-03T18:41:00.000-07:00

...BAD NEWS...

2009-08-16T16:05:00.000-07:00

So, I know I've been really really lazy... but I have excuses. I have recently joined the world of employment, and I've been working on some shoe designs for a friend with a label (more later).

And, the bad news... they've cancelled the shoe making course I was doing, which is the only real shoe making course in the state, and one of only two Australia-wide. It's a shame, and their reasoning - it's a hobby course only, no-one is taking it to a career level and all shoe design/making is being done off-shore. The worst thing they can do in such a situation? Shut down the only course that lets people learn these skills! A more reasonable solution would be to have a course that ran more than one day a week, turn it into a course where people can learn the skills they need to turn it into a career.

Anyway, like I said I'm working on some shoes for a friend's label and we're hoping to get samples made up soon...

...FIRST HEEL...

2009-06-01T01:48:00.000-07:00

We finally get to make a heel! It's not the styliest of heels but a heel nonetheless.

I'll be posting showing each step of making these.

First we need to make a shell forme. This means cutting blue architectural trace to the general shape of the last (the foot shaped model we make the shoe around-you can see it drawn in the above pic.), wetting it, carefully wrapping it around the last and drying it with a heat gun (hence the small burn marks in the picture below).

Then we draw the centre lines and design lines onto the shell forme both measuring and going by eye. We actually judge by eye more than I expected in shoe design... Unless the design is asymmetrical you only draw on the outside half. This design has the contrast detail that wraps around, so that needs to be drawn in.

When we've finished drawing we slice down the centre lines (effectively cutting the shell forme in half) and put a few notches around the toe. Flatten it out onto a piece of paper and we have a three dimensional form in 2D - this is what we make the patterns from.

More to come soon...

...ZAHA & MELISSA...

2009-05-25T20:37:00.000-07:00

We have been promised these shoes FOR EVER. A collaboration between architect, Zaha Hadid and Brazilian shoe label, Melissa.

They were supposed to be released last year but when I spoke to a Melissa rep she said Zaha was perfecting them... over and over... and over.

They're finally available on the Melissa website in black, purple and silver - but at $365 they're a little pricey... especially if I can't try them on... and I haven't seen them at any of the Melissa stockists in Sydney.

I love the sweeping lines and irregular, asymmetrical forms (in both the shoes and Zaha's buildings...)

I love Melissa shoes - they are so comfortable and they smell like strawberries :)

I have a pair of these in green and a pair in black.

And I have these:

I think I'm going to buy these:

A collaboration between Vivienne Westwood and Melissa, they're much more affordable than the Zaha's at $185. Should I?

...I ♥ RICK...

2009-05-09T21:43:00.000-07:00

I am still in love with these Rick Owens boots... Driving down Oxford St. in Paddington I swear I caught sight of a pair in a shop window. I definitely have to go confirm, but whatever they were they looked like they belong in my closet.

...PUMPS...

2009-05-06T19:57:00.000-07:00

So it's been a while since I've posted anything... I'm a terrible blogger. I've been super busy helping my boyfriend with a new space he's opening (and which I'll post about later)

My boyfriend got these for me from a fashion show - they're hilarious, not sure how much wear I can get out of them though! Just really cheap shoes with gold chain, zipper and toy basketball stuck on the heel... apparently the stylist had a budget of $30/pair of shoes!

I wore them out the other night to a 90's hip hop night and I've never had so many comments on my shoes - goes to show what you can do on a low budget with a bit of imagination.

...A TRIBUTE TO THE TRIBUTES...

2009-04-13T16:07:00.001-07:00

I'm still in love with the Yves Saint Laurent Tribute pumps... I was out the other day and spotted these knock-offs by Wittner. Actually, I'm not sure if these are actually called the Tribute pumps - I think that's only the peep-toe version... these, I think, are just the YSL Platform Pump. Whatever it's called, I love it.

At only $189- the Wittner Sassy heels are much more within my price range than the YSL version at US$795!

Now if I can only find a knockoff of the YSL boots that made it to my lust-have list in Feb I'll be happy...

...FIRST LASTING...

2009-04-06T03:47:00.000-07:00

This is my first attempt at lasting a shoe (i.e. shaping it around the last). We didn't design this shoe, so again it's kinda ugly. Apologies for the shit photos, I'm housesitting and have no camera other than my mac...

The counter (the piece that stiffens the heel) is a bit dodge because our teachers don't give us access to anything even mildly expensive until we can actually make a shoe. So we used pieces of leather. We used pink floral fabric covered in Clag for the toe puff (the piece that puffs the toe between the lining and upper).

In the last photo you can see the underside (it was just an exercise so there's no sole...) You have to put tacks all around the shoe (but they only stay in around the heel) and my thumbs are completely ruined from all the hammering and pulling and stretching and screw ups where I hit my thumb instead of the tack. Nevertheless I am loving that I just made a kind of shoe.

I called my shoe Fred. My friend called his shoe Nancy. Everyone else in class thinks we're weird, but it makes sense because the lasts have really cheesy names. The shoe I'm working on at the moment is Margo.

...NEW TILLY ROSE BOOTS...

2009-04-02T01:07:00.000-07:00

Just put these boots on lay-by... the photo doesn't do them justice at all and as soon as I pick them up I will take a better photo.

I've been looking for a pair of mid-calf, motorcycle-esque boots, and these are so comfortable! I'm now trying to convince myself that I do need another pair of black boots...

They're by Tilly Rose, an Australian label that I don't know too much about...

It was either the boots above, or these boots from Mimco (I can't find any bigger picture...). They grey was working for me, but they just weren't as comfortable as the Tilly Rose ones.

I also tried on these futuristic flats at Mimco. I need more flats in my wardrobe, kinda desperately! But these were very strangely designed - the top ankle strap sits right on top of your ankle bone and is hugely uncomfortable... so a no-go. In theory though, I like them a lot!

update: just want to add that I do think Mimco shoes (actually most things at Mimco) are ridiculously overpriced and the quality is not great (I got given a bangle not so long ago that broke after one wear!) but I know someone who works there and they get 70% off shoes which makes them pretty cheap (obviously no-one is spending $500 ^ on their shoes... why would you when you can get designer shoes for the same price?) Still didn't buy anything though...

...THE UNIVERSE OR THEMSELVES...

2009-04-01T06:06:00.000-07:00

If you're interested, check out The Universe or Themselves

A blog of my writing...

The photo is from The Hill of Crosses in Siauliai, Lithuania.

...SAME SAME BUT DIFFERENT...

2009-03-25T16:15:00.000-07:00

Same boot, different toe...I prefer the round toe

I'd like the platform and wedge of this boot to be light patent grey, and the upper, and piping to be white wetsuit material... I'm not exactly sure of the practicality of that...

...PARIS, TEXAS...

2009-03-18T04:06:00.000-07:00

This is one of my favourite films of all time. Visually, Wim Wenders gets it close to perfect, and the sparseness of the film is incredible. Nastassja Kinski as Jane is simply beautiful - the shot of her in the backless mohair sweater, looking over her shoulder is my favourite image from any film. And the soundtrack is so hauntingly perfect too... I just love everything about this film...

...JUST ADD STUDS...

2009-03-17T19:03:00.000-07:00

My friend at college jokingly says that if I'm not sure about something I just add studs... maybe it's true... I think these look a lot better though!

I'm imagining the studded front part to be black elastic, the vamp, back and strip down the heel to be black leather, the wedge part of the heel and layered part at the front to be nude leather, with bronze studs.

...ELASTIC BOOTIES...

2009-03-16T05:43:00.001-07:00

The fronts of these boots are elastic... The pale grey part of the heel and the pale grey top layer could be good in a really bright colour.

...I WANT A HOLGA...

2009-03-12T23:06:00.000-07:00

I was at an exhibition last night, and a girl there had a Holga camera hanging around her neck that I think has sparked a bit of an obsession. I am so in love with the soft images the plastic lens produces, the 120 medium format film, the saturated colours you can capture, the coloured flash... actually I just kind of love everything about it. I think I'm going to have to buy one and play around with it.

This lomography website has so much wonderful information on it - I've just spent an hour looking through all the images - they also have a Holga starter pack for sale which looks pretty good... I love. I want.

...I ♥ HENRY DARGER...

2009-03-03T21:56:00.000-08:00

Henry Darger is one of my favourite artists, and his story is as unlikely as his art.

His story is far too long to tell in full detail here, but very briefly: he was born in the 1890s, and and put in a catholic boy's home in 1900 when his father could no longer care for him. There, he was diagnosed by a doctor as "feeble" who said "Little Henry's heart is not in the right place".

When he was 16 he escaped the home, and walked from Lincoln back to Chicago, witnessing a tornado on the way - he walked over 100 miles. In Chicago he found work as a janitor in a hospital, and worked there until his retirement more than fifty years later, retiring only when forced by his employers.

He was intensely reclusive, and it was only after he passed away in 1973 that his landlords discovered his prolific work.

He had, over his lifetime, written the longest work of fiction on record - In the Realms of the Unreal (15,145 pages) - about the seven Vivian sisters - accompanied by three volumes containing several hundred illustrations. He had also written an autobiography of over 5,000 pages, a daily journal chronicling the daily weather for ten years, and a second work of fiction of over 10,000 pages. He is now one of the most recognised 'outsider artists', thanks to the efforts of his landlords.

The 2004 Documentary In the Realms of the Unreal brings his work to life beautifully (and is, strangely, narrated by Dakota Fanning)

I'd love to know what other people think of Darger's work...

...A SHOE FOR THE HEEL...

2009-03-02T20:56:00.001-08:00

A shoe for the spiked heel I sketched yesterday... The front is definitely a little inspired by the Rick Owens wedge boot

...MY FIRST (PROPER) SKETCHES...

2009-03-02T00:13:00.000-08:00

Today we spent the morning class learning to sketch around a last (the foot model thing). My shoe sketches are usually a bit of a scribble, so it was interesting doing everything carefully and to the proper scale etc... I don't mind the studded wedge heel, but I'm not so sure about the toe shape... We are supposed to practice this week, so guess I'll have a lot more by the end of the week!

This is another heel I quickly sketched - It's inspired by the bracelet I bought the other day.

Vs.

...MY FIRST (UGLY) SHOES...

2009-02-22T22:53:00.000-08:00

They might be hideous, but seeming as I didn't design them (it was a set design exercise - see previous post), and they're my first pair of shoes, I'm still proud of them!

They're a size 12.5, so there's no way I can actually wear them (not that I would want to...), but I got a pair of lasts (the foot shaped model you build shoes on) in my size for the next pair we're making.

I made every part of the shoe from scratch - there were no pre-made parts. We cut the insole and stretched leather around it, attached the straps, cut and sanded the sole to shape, made the heel, and put it all together.

Today we started work on pattern making, and we're making a closed in, flat court shoe (which are only marginally more attractive than the shoes in this post...) Pattern making is super interesting - even if you plan on getting shoes manufactured, rather than making them yourself, it shows you what's possible, and gives you a real understanding of the shoe.. I just wish my practical skills were a bit more advanced! I can't wait to start making shoes that I've designed...

...TEMPTED BY CHLOE...

2009-02-22T03:23:00.001-08:00

I know these boots are a bit old, but I'm in love. And they're on sale down the road...

They're from the Opening Ceremony & Chloe Sevigny collaboration.

There's one pair left, and they're my size, and they're so perfect. BUT are they worth getting my credit card out for?

Maybe this is where that stimulus cheque from a certain Mr. Rudd will be going...

...I ♥ RODARTE & NICHOLAS KIRKWOOD...

2009-02-18T21:01:00.000-08:00

I haven't been too impressed with much I've seen from New York Fashion Week, but I'm so in love with the Rodarte Fall 2009 collection. There's not much to say, the images speak for themselves - such a beautifully considered collection as a whole (rather than the one or two statement pieces so often seen).

I especially love the silver jacket in the second image...

The thigh-high grey and black boots by brit Nicholas Kirkwood completed the collection perfectly - I kind of feel it wouldn't have been the same collection without the delectable soft leather bandage-style boots. Are mummified feet going to be the next big thing? I can only hope so. These are a little Edward Scissorhands-esque... which I love. I wish I could see the heel on them though - Kirkwood shoes have such amazingly unique silhouettes.

I wasn't, however, such a fan of the heels he did for Rodarte SS09. I love the signature reverse platform, but I'm not a fan of all the straps and chains... they feel a bit tacky compared to most of his other work which is pretty much wearable art.

...GETTING CRAFTY...

2009-02-17T00:22:00.000-08:00

I was inspired by Camille from Childhood Flames and Lily from The House of Mirth to DIY a pair of shoes from Zara that I've had for over a year and worn twice. I pretty much bought them because they were on sale for 10 pounds - they're a nude colour that looks great in theory but is really hard to put into practice! I figure I'll get a lot more wear out of them in black.

This is what they used to look like...

I used black nail polish instead of permanent marker - it was a little streaky and worrying after only one coat, but great after two.

I showed my house mate these and she laughed because she thought I was keeping one black and one nude, but no, they're only half done as I ran out of cheap black nail polish and only had OPI left (which I didn't want to use on my shoes). So it's really only the front that's properly finished, which is why there are a few spots around the edge. I love the shiny patent look of the nail polish, and the black on black studs.

When they are eventually finished I'm going to wear them with this...

Khaki jacket: vintage. White tee: ...ADD (from Singapore). Leather skirt: vintage. Wool tights: GAP

...LUCKY GIRL...

2009-02-16T22:34:00.000-08:00

I got given this beautiful painting by Sydney street artist Ears for Christmas from the boy. I've only just gotten around to scanning it though.

I love his work - I feel as if it really blurs the lines traditionally laid down between street and fine art. We went to an exhibition called Cardboard City at Oh Really Gallery in Newtown where a group of artists had all done works on cardboard and were selling them for $20 each straight off the walls - such a fantastic way to make art accessible to everyone.

Here's a few of the Ears pieces on the streets around Sydney - see more of his images on his website.. ears to the ground.

My boy's having an exhibition of his photographs at Oh Really Gallery from 25th June to 2nd July - can't wait to see it!

...ALL THE PRETTY HORSES...

2009-02-14T23:57:00.000-08:00

Yesterday was Valentines Day. Most people class Valentines Day into one of four categories:

1. A day of love and happiness

2. A day of hideous depression

3. A commercially crass non-holiday

4. A complete non-event

I waver between putting it in 1, 3 and 4 - depending on my mood, and who I have to share it with.

This year it was a day of love - and I got given the cutest pony necklace! I love how it ties into the whole tribal thing, but is totally unique.

I'm also wearing this killer fang ring by No Tommorow - it's actually a friend of mine's and she lost it when we were out for her farewell - she moved to London on Monday and I found the ring in my bag on the Saturday! Looks like I'll have to post it back... I might have to invest in one for myself though - I love! The sheer mesh top I'm wearing was thrifted for $6- Bargain!

...BOOT FETISH...

2009-02-14T02:48:00.000-08:00

I was just looking at shoes on Amazon (a surprisingly good place to find shoes on sale) and I found these spike ballet fetish boots by Pleaser (yes... ballet fetish. Who'd have thought?). Strangely enough there's something I quite like about them. The ankle boots are infinitely preferable to the shoes with the ugly strap across the front - although I can't even begin to imagine trying to walk in them with the 7" heel!

Perhaps I'm going insane...

I also found these boots by Palladium which I'm seriously considering. I love the buckles, and the straps, and the mid-calf length, but I'm a bit unsure buying shoes online if I haven't seen the quality in person...

shoe images: Amazon

I'm imagining them with a t-shirt over leather skirt look - like Erin Wasson in the old photo below. How amazing is her t-shirt Now you little monkeys wanna be guerrillas.

I love. I want.

...I WANT CANDY...

2009-02-11T17:45:00.000-08:00

I am in love with pastel and candy coloured nail polish right now - especially OPI colours.

Do You Lilac It?, Gargantuan Green Grape, Los Cabos Coral

These are the ones I just bought. My favorite is Do You Lilac It? The colour is so easy to wear with pretty much anything. I'm looking for matte light grey nail polish for winter - does anyone know where I can get some?

...SHOULD I...

2009-02-10T19:44:00.000-08:00

I'm lusting after this studded grey BCBGMaxAzria belt...

The mosaic of pyramid studs is gorgeous, as is the silver on grey. They have a Spring promotion on their website...so tempting.

Maybe I'll wait until I get that stud setting tool and try a DIY version? I could try a patent black version with brass studs too.

...I ♥ KATE...

2009-02-10T01:40:00.000-08:00

I am completely in love with Kate Lanphear (US editor of ELLE).

I love her hair. (I'm thinking of growing mine like this...)

I love her monochromatic, slightly androgynous wardrobe.

Images: Garance Dore

I love all of her bangles.

I sound like a stalker. I'm not. Really.

I just kind of want to be Kate Lanphear. But doesn't everyone?

...LET THE FUN BEGIN...

2009-02-09T23:27:00.000-08:00

So, I started my shoe design and production course yesterday! Hooray! Such a struggle to get up at 7am though... but with the assistance of caffeine I managed to get through the morning.

First we bought tools. I know I'm probably the only one interested in this, but I've posted a photo (it did set me back over $200 - so I've got every right to be excited by them...)

clockwise: tack pincers (for the hammering and removing of tacks. As the name would suggest.), hammer (with sexy red handle.), not quite sure... we didn't cover this one on the first day, protective goggles, dust mask, scissors (well, duh.)

And a rather (un)sexy photo of me wearing the above protective goggles (which give me crazy eyes) and dust mask (which makes me feel a bit like Darth Vader).

We've already started making a pair of sandals - which was surprising, in a good way - I thought we'd be covering theory on the first day, but instead we got to play with pneumatic in-sole presses! The sandals are even less sexy than the above photo. But it was very exciting nonetheless.

I'm looking for a stud setting tool so I can stud them and make them a bit more attractive. Although I don't know why I'm bothering - the last (which, as I learnt, is the foot shaped model you make shoes on) that I'm using is a size 12.5 - I'm a size 8.5. They just handed them out randomly, as I guess they (rightly) assumed no one would wear such ugly sandals.

I'm still going to stud mine. I'm thinking lots of tiny brass studs.

...PLAYING THE WAITING GAME...

2009-02-06T23:27:00.000-08:00

I am loving this look from a few days ago at The Sartorialist.

The muted khaki and chocolate palette, the relaxed silhouette of the jacket, the bag, the snakeskin pumps - but most of all the loosely tailored khaki pants. I want! According to one of the comments on The Sartorialist they're from ZARA.

Why don't we have ZARA in Australia? The stores are pretty much everywhere else in the world. I heard a rumour they would be here by 2010. All that waiting...

If we did have ZARA, I would be buying the grey tailored harem-like pants and the nude jacket.

These tan booties with no tongue look like knock-offs of the Ann Demeulemeester RTW Spring Summer '09 boots - I'm loving the cut out heel detail on the ZARA version.

Vs.

On the topic of ZARA designer knock-offs - their version of the Balmain studded heel is one of the better ones I've seen around. I loved these when I first saw them, now I've seen so many (not so great) knock-offs I'm not too sure...

Vs.

Seeming as there is absolutely no way I can afford the real ones in either case, I'd love to get my hands on the ZARA versions...but until they come to Australia, or start an online store it looks like I'll be playing the waiting game... And hoping they do a knock-off of the denim military jacket with those incredible sculpted shoulders.

images from style.com and zara

...LUST HAVES...

2009-02-06T15:54:00.000-08:00

Chloe mongolian lamb coat, Topshop feather bolero, Topshop cropped lace top, Vintage bustier, Acne leather mini skirt, La Garçonne long harem pants, Roberto Cavalli snake ring, Mawi black crystal ring, Roberto Cavalli hexagonal bangle, Tejani black and gold cuff, Cuttler & Gross black round glasses, Ray Ban clubmasters, Ann Demeulemeester triple lace boots, YSL Tribute boots, Rick Owens cut out wedge boots, Chloe studded ankle boots, Tom Binns neon stone cuff

Lusting after all this and so much more... especially these Rick Owens cut out wedge boots. It would be like having a mummified foot - in a good, Rick Owens way.

...A SIGH OF RELIEF...

2009-02-05T21:55:00.000-08:00

Vs.

I finally saw that Louis Vuitton dress from the RTW Spring 2009 collection. So long as it's not on Madonna, it's gorgeous.

...I ♥ THIS...

2009-02-04T23:33:00.000-08:00

Heidi wears: Bodysuit Miu Miu, Athletic tape (worn as sleeves) Tourna Grip, Customised shoulder pads vintage Maison Martin Margiela

Lenz wears: Dress Dolce & Gabbana

I found these images this afternoon flipping through an old-ish V magazine (V55, Fall 2008) - the shoot is called "Fall For Heidi". I love the athletic tape as sleeves that Heidi Mount is wearing in the first image, especially with the Miu Miu bodysuit. The look is kind of futuristic harlequin - I wonder what the tape would look like in reality?

The second image of Lenz Von Johnston is impossibly gorgeous. The juxtaposition of the male body with the intensely feminine Dolce & Gabbana dress is such a beautiful contradiction. Lenz expresses so much longing with his body. A story told in just one photograph.

I also just noticed that this was shot by Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott. Love, love, love. More of their photographs here.

...SHARING IS CARING...

2009-02-04T20:36:00.000-08:00

Recently I've been obsessing over designer sales sites - especially Gilt and Estile. I don't understand why Gilt doesn't ship internationally - but I still signed up to lust over the heavily discounted designer goodies.

Because sharing is caring I've put up invitation links to both Gilt and Estile.

Click here for Gilt membership

Click here for Estile membership

...PLEASURE TO MEET YOU...

2009-02-04T20:27:00.000-08:00

I wanted a place to store my inspirations, keep track of my dreams, and discover new fashion, new design and new people. This is what What Not & I was born from.

I study creative writing, and I begin a shoe design and production course on Monday.

If you would like to share the journey with me, I would love to have you along for the ride. Leave comments, leave love, leave criticism. Or just drop in every now and then. Whatever, I’m easy.

The photograph in the blog header is by Juan Mon.